The intrigue of nothing. The fragile come-on of 70s-style innocence rendered here in the nothing-but-everything lip that works against eyes swiped by a shadow. At Carlos Miele the signature Sweet Baby Jane look created by Lipstick, Myth and Plushglass, Nice Buzz.
The lips could have gone redder, but in an enigmatic, underplayed, sexy, and too coy 70s twist, the lips on show at Kai Kühne offered a pliant light-shined softness against eyes dramatically swiped by line and shadow. The palette: Show Orchid, a bright floral fuchsia, with a Tinted Lip Conditioner, Gentle Coral.
Amidst Elie Saab's glamour parade, an eye that was summed by M·A·C's Gordon Espinet as evoking the glama-duo of Cher and Diane Ross. And of course, this high class disco rework would be nothing without Blue. Here it is in modern shades of Freshwater and Carbon Eye Shadow, soft smudge-able Eye Kohl in Blooz, Plush Lash Mascara in Plushblack.
At Luca Luca, designer Luca Orlandi's beautifully spare and precise designs were timeless, the right setting for a richly goldmined eyes that pitted precious metals against velvet against satin to evoke the expensive glamour mood of the 70's. Features: Pigment, Golden Lemon, Eye Shadows, Carbon and Brun, and 7 Lash.
Antonio Berardi's stridently, almost fetishistically black fashions were supported by looks that were consummately masculine-feminine. Key feature was a brow, rendered in the form of a strong, lengthened hyper-groomed arch, matched against lids that were soft of colour yet deftly defined. To get the look: Brow Shader, Auburn/Malt; Eye Shadow, Dazzlelight; Fluidline, Dipdown; 263 Small Angle Brush; Zoom Lash, Zoomblack.
Against fuss and florals, anoraks and countryside, the look at Matthew Williamson was of a no-nonsense English Rose. Lending the fresh feel - the no-drama eyes created by Brow Set, Clear; Paint Pot, Groundwork; Pro Lash, Coal Black.
At Isabelle Marant the attitude was soft and easy. Models breezed down the runway, hands in pockets. And on their faces: nothing much. Given the relaxed attitude, it was just right. For the lips: Slimshine, Funshine with Lip Conditioner SPF 15.
Referencing the bold panache of comic book Spiderwoman and slipping them into soft, sexy modern armour there was no war paint at Sophia Kokosalaki. These modern heroines like it bare to become face-naked, all-powerful. Key elements: Lipstick, Myth, Pretty Please and Powder Blush, Pinch Me.
Fashion tribes of any DNA have long hankered after the black lip. As the fashion goth's matte black sees the ghost, backstage at Giles there was a fabulous reworking in fabulously noir patent black. Glamorous against any colour of skin. Blend your own: Lipmix in Black with rich browny-black Copper Walnut Gloss.
High Priestess of Glama-Punk, Vivienne Westood's Fall inspires a glittering archly-glam lip. Light up your dark side. The essentials: Lipstick, Dark Side; Lip Pencil, Nightmoth. For the highlights: Glitter Reflects, Rust, and Clear Lipglass.
At Manish Arora the speak-with-your-eyes glamour of Bollywood and the mannered demure of Paris couture fuse in eyes smoothly and fluidly articulated with a languorously flirtatious wisp of lash. The 5 essentials: Fluidline, Blacktrack; Eye Shadows, Soot and Blanc Type. The 2 Lash. Duo Adhesive, Dark.
Graphic, part geisha, Nathan Jenden' s blushing beauties evoked reactionary femmes from every era from Restoration-style ladies of some repute to deft 80's glam. The tools: Powder Blush, Frankly Scarlet, Set Powder, Invisible, and the must-have 168 Brush for the defined stroke.
Girls love their bud, and nowhere is it more apparent than at Carmen Marc Valvo. Wine red shades, definitively applied are left to speak, truthfully, for themselves. The shades that say it all: Lip Pencil, Cherry for supreme definition and Lipstick, Pink Nouveau for fill.
Richard Nicolls' exaggerated forms demanded a minimal canvas and largely there was a sense of "mummy having hidden the lipstick". But there was still work for the sommelier. The perfect wine to decant here: Lipstick, Plumful.
Against soft forms, draped silhouettes what was consistent at Donna Karan: the red wine tailored lip. Distinctly Chateaux MAC 2008, here was a lip that punctuated the runway with a robust, sexy, splendour. Lipstick Lovelorn and Lady Danger.
At Rodarte where lips went a bit-of-a blot to a deep red kabuki bow, it was the eyes that held the look of bare-faced intrigue with an unexpected wine stain that find itself in creases or stroking the under eye. The shades: Eye Shadows, Post Haste, Dazzlelight.
Against Hérve Léger micro-forms, what else but deceptively minimalist lines rendered in matted chalky tones of pink. Part mod; part art school sophisto, part boho with a pout. Key for the legions who will love this look: Layer Lipsticks, Snob and Pervette. Don't wait for Art Basel (wear it now!)
With windblown hair and blush that knows no border, Fall at Romeo Gigli pointed to the art of pushing limits, and having fun. Here Powder Blush, Fleur Power sweeps up the cheeks to under the eye to create one single wash of colour. For lips: Lip Pencil, Redd; Lipstick, Lady Danger.
Influenced by the flora and fauna-inspired art of the Lalannes Catherine Malandrino's palette becomes nature based with the key eye shaded as colourfully as a turning leaf. The palette: Eye Shadow, Gorgeous Gold, Coquette and Flourishing with Fibre Rich Lash, All Black.
At Monique Lhuillier eyes became "accessory", the dynamic counterpoint to Lhuillier's forms of sculptural simplicity. At work: the tonal capacity of colour to create a mood of dark. Eyes dappled with the triple-colour shading that deliberately put the eyes in full-focus. For shades: Eye Shadow, Beauty Marked, Deep Truth, and Trax. Define with Technakohl Liner, Auto-de-Blu and top off with Pro Longlash, Pitchblack.
Source: MAC Cosmetics
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